Sitting and shivvvverrring

Summer-wise life here is hot, hot, hot. The winter’s a different matter. Those tiled floors and painted walls that help keep the house refreshingly cool when it’s 40 plus - not so nice when you’re in single figures. Outside it might be nearly 20, but inside, at my desk, I’m wearing a shirt, a jumper and a cardigan, and I’ve still got the chills.

Winter in warmer climes is never much fun, especially for those who shifted here for the heat. Anyone who’s happy to take whatever the summer can throw at them, isn’t going to fare so well when the mercury drops. In the end, though, it’s worth the pain. I would far prefer a few months of shivering (followed by a long hot summer) to 10 or 11 months of drizzle.

Back in love with Salento

It’s been an odd few months. We’ve had a fantastic summer, despite a few ups and downs (in-laws related mainly), but the overall feeling at the beginning of September was that maybe this isn’t where we should be. More than a feeling, in fact; it was enough to drive us to the UK property websites to research whether we still have the means to return to the UK.

And then, just like that, we fell in love with Salento again.

This weekend sealed the deal, for me at least. It was gorgeously warm. Saturday we swam to a small island, which was deserted. We cast ourselves away for a few hours of swimming, sunbathing and beachcombing. Discovered broken pieces of terracotta, red and green sea urchin shells and a dried-up starfish clinging to a shard of pottery.

That evening we had dinner out at a cheap, family-run place in a palm-lined square. Two plates of meatballs, a large mixed grill, chips, wine, water, bread and two plates of vegetables all came to €30 for the three of us. It was all delicious, but the highlight was greens (chicory?) with chilli.

Sunday we swam to the island again. This time we weren’t alone there, but the water was even clearer than it had been on Saturday. We forfeited watching the Singapore Grand Prix for a few more hours in the sun and sea (who wouldn’t); then swam to shore and returned home, exhausted.

There are days when the lack of cash and jobs makes life here almost intolerable. But time with family, time outdoors and good food counteract these. We’re still not convinced we’re here for the duration – but at least, while we are here, we’re enjoying life to the full.

First ambitions

Last night I watched my son drive solo for the first time. A kiddie-car at the fair, granted, but a car, none-the-less. And he was doing it, on his own.

Many of the things he’s done for the first time have been things that we’ve been waiting for him to do. Walking, speaking, sleeping through the night (though, fortunately, not necessarily in that order). This driving thing had an extra dimension though – for watching him negotiate the track in a fake electric Ferrari, I was also watching him achieve one of his first ambitions.

At the time it felt like a big moment. In hindsight I realise that it was.

Favourite restaurants in Salento

Salento in Puglia, southern Italy, is famous for it’s food. Generally portions are hearty and made with fresh local produce. Fish is a popular feature on menus at coastal restaurants, whilst inland you’re more likely to find meat-based dishes on offer. Specialities include home-made orrechiette (ear-shaped pasta), cavallo (horse) and large plates of antipasti.

There are plenty of places to get a great meal, but these are my favourites. They’re the places we go back to again and again.

Naos, Ugento

Via Giannuzzi Capitano Ugo, 90
0833 955157
Naos is a great place to sample Salentine cooking at its heartiest. Worth trying are the homemade arancini, the ceceri and tria (handmade pasta in a chickpea sauce) and the penne with salmone. Portions are generous and many dishes are made with home-gown ingredients.

Retro, Castrignano del Capo

Whether you eat in the outside courtyard or the vaulted dining room, a meal at Retro never disappoints. This is one of those places without a menu, but whatever Salvatore (the chef and owner) offers you will taste great – don’t worry! There’s also a wide selection of wine and some delicious cakes and biscuits to sample.

Gnam, Santa Maria de Leuca

Lungomare C.Colombo
333 28 24 328
A popular spot for pizza at the bottom of Italy’s ‘heel”. The pizzas here are twice the size of normal ones, but they’ll put two different toppings on if you’re sharing and can’t agree on what you want. Tables are outdoors, on a flight of stairs opposite the seafront.

Lo Sturno, Parabita

Via Immacolata 2
0833 593477
This is a good choice if you want to eat where the locals eat. It’s situated in a stone cellar in the historical centre of Parabita, a small town about 15 minutes inland from Gallipoli. Everything I’ve tried here tastes great, but the meatballs in sauce (polpette al sugo) seem to be their signature dish. Get here early for lunch, as after 1pm it fills up with business people.

Osteria San Martino, Lecce

Via Marco Aurelio, 10 (near the park)
340 40 64 411
One of the best places we’ve found recently. Again there’s no menu, but they offer a wide variety of local specialities at really reasonable prices. And no-one speaks English, so it’s a great place to practise your Italian. It may not be the most glamorous restaurant in Lecce, but this is a great family-owned place and the food never disappoints.

Scoglio dele Sirene, Gallipoli

Great views of Gallipoli harbour from this restaurant on the sea wall. It’s especially romantic in the evening when the place is strewn with candles. This is one of the more expensive places on this list, but then again you are paying for the location. It’s great for super-fresh seafood and local specialities.

Tatanka, near Santa Maria de Leuca

Litoranea Leuca-Gallipoli
340 34 36 909
Another place with an amazing sea-view. Tatanka’s menu isn’t the biggest I’ve seen, but everything is cooked well and tastes great. The rocks opposite are a great place for a swim, if you don’t mind deep water. Daredevils jump from the cliffs into the clear sea, and there is a cave you can swim into. Just make sure you go swimming before lunch!

A new life in Italy

It’s been nearly a year since we moved here permanently. But, as anyone who has moved abroad knows, a year isn’t long to settle in. Language barriers aside, it takes a while to adapt to new customs, find new friends and understand the nitty-gritty of life in your new country.

We’re starting to find our feet and Salento feels more like home every day. Neighbours and local shopkeepers recognise us and say hello and my son is starting to understand and speak Italian. More than anything, though, the arrival of spring has helped us settle in. As the weather warms up, we’re rediscovering the Salento we originally fell in love with.

Moving house is never easy, and it’s even harder when you change countries. But I’m hopeful that we’ll make this work.